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© Ann Kingstone
Any fingering weight sock yarn in the house colors of your choice
Set of 5 1½ (2.50 mm) DPNs
32 stitches and 44 rounds per 4” (10.16 cm) in stockinette stitch before blocking
One size fits most 4 to 6 year old wizards.
SSK: Slip the next two stitches knit-wise then knit them together from the right hand
K2tog: Knit two stitches together as though they are one stitch
P2tog: Purl two stitches together as though they are one stitch
Cast on 56 stitches.
Divide onto four DPNs, placing 14 stitches on each needle.
Join for knitting in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work 10 rounds of single (K1,PI) or double (K2,P2) ribbing, whichever you like.
Change to (K3,P2) ribbing, decreasing one stitch in the first round to get an appropriate
stitch count for the new rib.
Work for as many rounds as necessary for the length of sock desired, remembering that the heel flap will add 2" (5.08 cm) to the total length.
Split the stitches so that 27 stitches are left aside for the instep and 28 stitches are retained to be the heel flap stitches.
The split should be made so that there are two purl stitches at each end of the instep stitches, and 3 knit stitches at each end of the heel flap stitches.
Knit the 28 heel flap stitches back and forth in stockinette stitch, slipping the first
stitch of each row purl-wise, until the heel flap measures 2" (5.08 cm), ending with a purl row.
Row 1: (Knit row)K17, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 2: Slip 1 purl-wise, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3: Slip 1 purl-wise, knit to one stitch before the gap created by the turn of the previous row, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1 purl-wise, purl to one stitch before the gap created by the turn of the previous row, P2tog, P1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all the stitches from the heel flap have been worked.
Split the heel stitches equally between two needles. The instep stitches should be split across two needles, also.
With the needle holding the latter half of the heel stitches pick up and knit 12 stitches from the edge of the heel flap beyond them.
Author's Note: It is best to pick up the back strand of the edge stitch, though you may need to pick up and knit some front strands also to make up the correct number of picked up stitches. The edge stitches should be twisted as they are picked up in order to avoid holes where the heel flap joins the gusset. It is also wise to pick up a strand from between the instep stitches and heel flap stitches, twisting this also, to avoid a hole occurring here (this should be the 12th stitch to be picked up).
Change needles and knit across the instep stitches in the (K3,P2) ribbing pattern, starting with two purl stitches.
Change needles and pick up 12 stitches down the other side of the heel flap.
The next needle becomes needle 1.
Round 1: Knit all stitches from needle 1, knit across needles 2 and 3 in (K3,P2) ribbing pattern, knit all stitches from needle 4.
Round 2: Knit to the last 3 stitches on needle 1, K2tog, K1. Knit across needles 2 and
3 in (K3,P2) ribbing pattern. On needle 4 K1, SSK, knit across remaining stitches.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until the stitch count has reduced to 55 stitches again.
Continue knitting the sole stitches and working the (K3, P2) ribbing across the instep stitches until the foot measures the required length from the back of the heel, remembering that the toe will add approximately 1½" (3.81 cm) to the overall foot length.
Knit two rounds plain.
Round 1: On needle 1 knit to the last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1. On needle 2 K1, SSK, knit
across all remaining stitches. On needle 3 knit to the last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1. On
needle 4 K1, SSK, knit across all remaining stitches.
Round 2: Knit all stitches.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 27 stitches remain.
Repeat Round 1 only until 15 stitches remain.
Knit across the stitches on needle 1, again working a K2tog decrease and knitting the last stitch on the needle.
Place all stitches from needles 2 and 3 onto 1 needle, and all stitches from needles 1 and 4 onto 1 needle (7 stitches on each needle).
Break off the yarn leaving a 12" (30.48 cm) tail.
Thread this onto a darning needle and Kitchener stitch the remaining stitches together.
Weave in all ends, first using the end at the top of the cuff to join together the first
and last stitches of the cast on so that the cast on edge becomes 1 continuous round.
Block on sock blockers or iron under a damp cloth.
Ann Kingstone's tutorial was taken with permission from ravelry.com. Also be sure to check out Anna's patterns for sale at her Etsy store, which include Hufflepuff Pride Socks, Durmstrang Socks, Luna's Moonlight Socks, Gryffindor Pride Socks, and Ravenclaw Pride Socks.
Please note that the patterns and tutorials you find here have been designed by Harry Potter fans all over the Internet. The authors alone hold the copyrights and licences to these patterns and tutorials, which means you CANNOT use their patterns to make something that you will sell to others afterwards. You can use them to make things for yourself. You can make some for your friends and ask them to pay for supplies. You CANNOT, however, ask them to pay you to do it as though you had created this pattern by yourself, or try to sell you crafts to a local store.
Think about it. Would you take a Prisoner of Azkaban book, photocopy it, put your name in big red letters on the front cover and try to sell it in your local library? The answer is, obviously, no. Well, selling crafts you have made but not designed would be just as bad!
Also note that the tutorials, recipes and patterns found here have not been tested and that The Leaky Cauldron's Harry Potter Crafts section is not responsible for any mistakes they may contain. If you do find something wrong in one of them, however, please e-mail us to let us know.
On that note, Harry crafting to all!