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Weasley Sweater (Measurements in CENTIMETERS)

© Alison

Finished measurements

Circumference: 50.8 (55.9, 61.0, 66.0, 71.1, 76.2, 81.3, 86.4, 91.4, 96.5, 101.60, 106.7, 111.8, 116.8) cm
Length: 30 (34.3, 38.1, 41.9, 45.7, 49.5, 53.3, 57.2, 61.0, 64.8, 67.3, 67.3, 69.9, 72.4) cm
Note: Since this pattern had a lot of measurements, we prefered to keep all the measurements in centimeters. For a version that includes measurements in inches, please click here.

Supplies

MC: 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins of Rowan Felted Tweed or approximately 570 (570, 760, 950, 950, 1140, 1330, 1520, 1520, 1710, 1900, 2090, 2280, 2470) yards of similar gauge tweedy yarn
CC: 1 skein of Rowan Felted Tweed or 190 yards of similar gauge tweedy yarn
US5 (3.75 mm) needles (or size required to get gauge)
US 5 (3.75 mm) 16” circular needle (or size required to get gauge)
Stitch holder or scrap of yarn
Stitch markers or scraps of yarn
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge

24 stitchers and 32 rows per 10 cm.
Note: If you want to use a yarn with a larger gauge, you can try using this same pattern, but following the instructions for a smaller size! Knit a gauge swatch and multiply your gauge per cm by half the bust size you wish to make (e.g.: if your gauge is 4 st./2.5 cm and you’re knitting a 91.4 cm size, mulitply 4×91.4). Find the number closest to that number in the instructions for the back. Circle that number and follow all of the instructions that refer to # of stitches as if you were knitting that size. BUT follow instructions that refer to length in centimeters or # of rows from the ACTUAL size you want to make.

Chart

H Chart for the smaller sizes
H Chart for the middle sizes (bolded)
H Chart for the largest sizes (underlined)

Instructions

Back

With MC cast on 60 (66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, 126, 132, 138) stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch until piece measures 30.5 (34.3, 38.1, 41.9, 45.7, 49.5, 53.3, 57.2, 61, 64.8, 67.3, 67.3, 69.9, 72.4) cm, ending with WS row.

Shoulder shaping
Bind off 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) stitches at the beginning of the next two rows.

Place remaining 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50) stitches on holder or scrap yarn for the neck.
Note: If you wish to grade the shoulders you can divide the shoulder bind offs into two, three, or four groups. For example, for the smallest size – bind off 9 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows, 2 times; for the seventh size (81.3 cm circ.) – bind off 10 stitches at beginning of next two rows, 3 times; for the largest size (111.8 cm circ.) – bind off 10 stitches at beginning of next two rows, 4 times.

Mark beginning of armhole by measuring 12.7 (15.2, 16.5, 16.5, 17.8, 19.1, 20.3, 21.6, 22.9, 24.1, 25.4, 26.7, 28.0, 29.2) cm DOWN from each shoulder edge and tying a spare scrap of yarn around the edge stitches.

Front

Work as for BACK until piece measures 12.7 (15.2, 17.8, 20.3, 22.9, 25.4, 27.9, 30.5, 33.0, 35.6, 38.1, 38.1, 40.6, 43.2) cm from bottom.

If you are knitting the initial into the front, begin working initial chart using a separate strand of MC and CC for each color section. Be sure to center chart for your size in the middle of the sweater. If you will be adding the initial later with duplicate stitch, continue knitting in stockinette stitch with MC only.

After completing chart, continue knitting with MC only until sweater measures 24.8 (28.6, 32.4, 36.2, 39.4, 43.2, 47.0, 50.8, 54.6, 57.8, 60.3, 62.9, 62.9, 65.4) cm, ending with WS row.

Neck Shaping
Knit the first 24 (26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41, 44, 46, 49, 51, 54, 56) stitches, placing the center 12 (14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26) stitches onto holder or scrap yarn, and knitting the remaining 24 (26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41, 43, 46, 49, 51, 54, 56) stitches.

Continue on right side of neck only, working all following neck decreases for this side one stitch in from the egde as follows:
- on WS: Purl to last 3 stitches, P2tog, P1
- on RS: K1, K2tog, K to end.

Shape neck by decreasing one stitch at neck edge EVERY row 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, then EVERY OTHER ROW 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) times. Continue in stockinette stitch until front is as long as back to beginning of shoulder shaping (see *) and complete as for back.

Join new yarn at armhole edge of left side to begin working left side of neck. Work all following neck decreases for this side as follows:
- on RS: Knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, K1
- on WS: P1, SSP, P to end
Shape neck as for other side (see *

).

Mark beginning of armhole by measuring 12.7 (15.2, 16.5, 16.5, 17.8, 19.1, 20.38, 21.6, 22.9, 24.1, 25.4, 26.7, 27.9, 29.2) cm DOWN from each shoulder edge and tying a spare scrap of yarn around the edge stitches.

Sleeves

Sew shoulders together. Pick up and knit 58 (66, 72, 78, 84, 88, 96, 100, 108, 112, 120, 124, 132, 136) stitches around left armhole from from marked stitch on front to marked stitch on back. Beginning with a purl row, work in stockinette stitch for 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 3.2, 3.2, 3.2, 3.2, 3.2, 3.8, 3.8, 3.8, 3.8, 3.8) cm. Begin shaping sleeve, by working decreases on each side one stitch in from the edge, as follows:
- on RS: K1, K2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, K1
- on WS: P1, SSP, P to last 3 stitches, P2tog, P1)

Work decreases on next and then on every 6 (6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4)th row until 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 54, 58, 58, 62, 62, 66, 66, 70, 70) stitches remain. When decreases are complete, continue working in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 21.6 (24.1, 26.7, 29.2, 30.5, 33.0, 35.6, 38.1, 40.6, 41.9, 43.2, 44.5, 45.72, 47.0) cm, then work 2×2 ribbing (beginning and ending each row with K2) for 3.8 (3.8, 3.8, 3.8, 5.1, 5.1, 5.1, 5.1, 5.1, 6.4, 6.4, 6.4, 6.4, 6.4) cm.

Bind off in pattern.

Repeat for right armhole.

Sew side seams of body and sleeves and weave in ends. Accio sweater!

Final Product

Weasley Sweater

Credit

Alison’s pattern was taken with permission from alison.knitsmiths.us.

Please note that the patterns and tutorials you find here have been designed by Harry Potter fans all over the Internet. The authors alone hold the copyrights and licences to these patterns and tutorials, which means you CANNOT use their patterns to make something that you will sell to others afterwards. You can use them to make things for yourself. You can make some for your friends and ask them to pay for supplies. You CANNOT, however, ask them to pay you to do it as though you had created this pattern by yourself, or try to sell you crafts to a local store.

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On that note, Harry crafting to all!