Any fingering weight yarn
2 US/2 (2.75 mm) circular needles
2 Cable needles
N1 = needle 1
N2 = needle 2
sl3b = slip next three stitches on cable needle and leave on back of work
sl3f = slip next three stitches on cable needle and leave on front of work
m1 = increase by one stitch by taking the stitch in the row underneath the next stitch you are going to knit, place it on the left needle and knit this new stitch
k3bcn = knit the three stitches on back cable needle
k3fcn = knit the three stitches on front cable needle
k2tog = Knit two stitches together
skpo = slip one stitch, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch
p2tog = purl two stitches together
sl1k = slip one stitch as if to knit
sl1p = slip one stitch as if to purl
k2tog tbl = knit two stitches together through the back loop
Regular Row: *p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p1 Repeat from * to end of row.
Cable Row 1: *p1, k1, p1, sl3b, sl3f, k3, k3fcn, k3bcn, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p1 Repeat from * to end of row.
Cable Row 2: *p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, sl3b, sl3f, k3, k3fcn, k3bcn, p1, k1, p1 Repeat from * to end of row.
Cast on 66 stitches, dividing equally between two circular needles.
Join and start knitting in the round.
K1, p1 for 15 rows.
Place a stitch marker on the first row of needle 1 to know at all times where it is.
Add 24 stitches as you knit the next row (distribute 12 x m1 over each needle).
You should now have a total of 90 stitches (45 on each needle).
Begin leg pattern
Knit 4 rounds of the regular row.
Knit cable row 1.
Knit 4 rounds of the regular row.
Knit cable row 2.
Repeat these last four steps until the leg reaches the length you want.
End after a series of 4 regular rows.
N1 = spread 13 decreases (k2 tog) over the 45 stitches.
N2 = spread 12 decreases (k2 tog) over the 45 stitches.
You now have a total of 65 stitches (32 stitches on N1 and 33 stitches on N2).
The heel is worked over the 32 stitches of N1.
N2 is left out for this part of the sock and will be taken back when heel is finished and you are ready to knit in the round again.
*sl1k, k1 Repeat from * until end of row.
Sl1p, purl to end of row.
Repeat these two rows until your heel measures 2 1/2" (6.25 cm) - ending with a purl row.
With the right side facing you, sl1k, k17, k2tog tbl, k1, turn.
Sl1p, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Sl1k, k6, k2tog tbl, k1, turn.
Sl1p, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Continue doing so until you have used all the stitches on your needle.
Author's Note: On the last two rows you knit, you will not be able to knit or purl the last stitch alone. You will end on a purl row.
Next row: sl1k, k17, with the same needle, pick up and knit 19 stitches from left side of heel (simply insert your needle under the edge slipped stitch and knit).
Now pick up N2 and knit its 33 stitches.
Take N1 again and pick up and knit 19 stitches on the right side of heel.
With the same needle, continue knitting stitches until you reach the last 3 stitches, k2 tog, k1.
Knit stitches with N2.
Row 1: N1: k1, skpo, knit to last 3 stitches, k2 tog, k1.
N2: knit all stitches.
Row 2: N1 & N2: knit all stitches.
Repeat these two rows until you have 33 stitches again on N1.
After that knit all stitches until you reach 1 1/2" (3.75 cm) before the end of your foot length. Once you do, you will be ready to work the toe decrease.
Row 1: N1 & N2: k1, skpo, knit to last 3 stitches, k2 tog, k1.
Row 2: N1 & N2 = knit all stitches.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have a total of 30 stitches left (15 on each needle).
Break yarn, graft remaining stitches and weave in ends.
Audrey's tutorial was taken with permission from stitchintime71.blogspot.com.
On that note, Harry crafting to all!